Greece in 11 days: Santorini, Meteora, Delphi and Athens

In this article

Our first evening in Oia: a private hot tub, the caldera in front of us and nobody overlooking the terrace. A few days later, we were finishing our photographs at Cape Sounion as the last visitors left the Temple of Poseidon. In between came Santorini’s white houses, the monasteries of Meteora, the ruins of Delphi and the Acropolis.

We travelled from 27 October to 6 November 2023: four nights in Santorini, then a driving loop from Athens through Meteora and Delphi, finishing in the capital with a trip to Cape Sounion.

Eleven busy days, but the pace suited us. We walked, took our time in the villages, watched plenty of sunsets and ate very well.

Why combine Santorini and mainland Greece?

We wanted to see Santorini, but summer travel accounts made us hesitate: packed lanes and difficult traffic are not what we look for on a trip.

So we chose late October, hoping for pleasant weather and a trip that went beyond the beach and hotel.

Four nights gave us time for several villages, a drive around the island and a caldera boat trip. We also dreamed of Meteora and Athens, so we looked for a way to connect them in one journey.

Paris–Santorini, Santorini–Athens, Athens–Paris: no backtracking, and the fares were still reasonable when we booked.

Our itinerary from 27 October to 6 November

• 27 October : Paris–Santorini flight, Oia and our first night overlooking the caldera.
  More information: Oia and Ammoudi.
• 28 October : Imerovigli, a walk on Skaros Rock and an evening at Akrotiri lighthouse.
  More information: Imerovigli and Skaros.
• 29 October : Pyrgos, Emporio’s windmills, Megalochori, Zoodochos Pigi cave, Perissa and Red Beach. We ended the day at Imerovigli and the Three Bells of Fira.
  More information: inland villages, southern Santorini.
• 30 October : boat trip to the hot springs, volcano and Thirassia, followed by sunset in Firostefani.
  More information: boat trip, sunset spots.
• 31 October : a very early flight to Athens, hire car collection and the drive to Meteora.
  More information: our Meteora stop.
• 1 November : Meteora’s monasteries and viewpoints.
  More information: visiting Meteora.
• 2 November : a final morning in Meteora, the drive to Delphi and an overnight stay there.
  More information: our Delphi stop.
• 3 November : Delphi’s archaeological site, museum and Athena Pronaia, a stop in Arachova, Hosios Loukas monastery and the drive to Athens.
  More information: Delphi, Arachova and Hosios Loukas.
• 4 and 5 November : Athens and Cape Sounion.
  More information: visiting Athens, Cape Sounion day trip.
• 6 November : hire car returned at the airport and flight back to Paris.

Santorini: four nights of caldera views, villages and volcanic scenery

Santorini is more than white houses and blue domes. On a fairly small island, you move from the caldera to volcanic beaches and inland villages, with a different atmosphere at each stop.

We split our accommodation simply: one first night with a view, then three nights in a more central location to keep costs reasonable.

Oia and a first night overlooking the caldera

We started in Oia, at the northern tip. You know the scene: narrow lanes, terraces clinging to the cliffs, white houses and the sea far below.

We explored the village in the afternoon and evening, and went down to Ammoudi harbour.

We booked Ambition Suites for that night. The room, hot tub and especially the caldera view were wonderful, with no one overlooking us. At around US$330 a night, it was our treat to start the journey. Looking back, we would happily have stayed another night.

For our sightseeing and overnight stay at Ambition Suites, read our article on Oia and Ammoudi.

Imerovigli and Skaros Rock

The following day we explored Imerovigli and walked on Skaros Rock, the headland jutting out below the village.

We loved it. Some views moved us even more than Oia’s. Even in October, Oia’s best-known spots drew crowds; in Imerovigli, we could find our own angles and linger among the lanes, bougainvillea and caldera views.

We had lunch at Mavro Restaurant in the Kivotos Santorini hotel. It was about to close for the season and the terrace was almost empty: we nearly had that panorama to ourselves.

That evening we drove to Akrotiri lighthouse. We were too late to see the sun disappear, but the last colours were still worth the journey.

For the views, walk and our lunch stop, find more details in our article on Imerovigli and Skaros.

Pyrgos, Emporio and Megalochori: inland Santorini

On our third day, we explored the south.

In Pyrgos, we followed the lanes uphill to the remains of the Venetian castle, passing stairways, little squares and narrow passages.

Then came Emporio’s windmills and Megalochori. Its six-bell tower is easy to spot, but wandering the surrounding streets is the real pleasure.

These stops complement the caldera villages beautifully: another pace and another side of the island.

To explore inland Santorini further, read our article on Pyrgos, Emporio and Megalochori.

Zoodochos Pigi cave, Perissa and Red Beach

Near Kamari, we visited Zoodochos Pigi cave.

We stopped for lunch beside Perissa’s volcanic beach, then headed to Red Beach near Akrotiri.

Red cliffs against the sea make a striking photograph. For us, this was a scenic stop rather than a swimming day.

We visited neither Akrotiri’s archaeological site nor Ancient Thera. If you want to add an ancient site to your stay, Thera could complement this itinerary.

We also explored Kamari, Vlychada and Perivolos during our stay. We have not reconstructed their exact day here; you will find them marked on the Santorini map.

For this part of the day, find our stops and advice in our article on southern Santorini.

Our sunset spots in Santorini

We spent several evenings around the caldera, particularly at Imerovigli and the Three Bells of Fira in Firostefani.

The Three Bells became our favourite place to end the day. A handy detail: a small nearby car park made access easier for us.

Our first visit caught the last colours. The next day, we returned for the full sunset before dinner at Aktaion.

Another photography tip: take morning walks too. The light is different and some places are quieter.

To choose your viewpoint and plan the evening, see our Santorini sunset spots and favourite restaurants.

A day by boat: hot springs, the volcano and Thirassia

Our boat trip left from Fira’s old port, far below the town. You can reach it by a long stairway or the cable car.

Donkey rides are also offered. We would recommend walking, if suitable for you, or taking the cable car.

First stop: the hot springs. The boat anchors offshore, so you swim from the boat to the warm water. You need to be confident in the water. We stayed on board.

Next came Nea Kameni and its volcanic landscape. There is an uphill walk, but at our own pace we found it manageable, with enough time to explore without rushing.

The final stop was Thirassia. From Korfos harbour we climbed the steps to Manolas village and had lunch up there.

The climb takes some effort. If you prefer to stay at the harbour, you can enjoy the waterfront restaurants, as was possible when we visited.

We paid around US$38.5 per person for the excursion.

For the stops, Thirassia’s steps and practical details, read our article on the Santorini boat trip.

Where we stayed and ate in Santorini

After Ambition Suites, we spent three nights at Nano Suites, at around US$88 per night.

We liked the accommodation, breakfast and view from this part of the island. Access needs some planning, though: the final stretch is uphill on foot, and nearby parking was limited.

Manoeuvring our large hire car was awkward. We had requested a small car but received an estate; on Santorini, a compact would have been a much better choice.

For food, we remember Aktaion in Firostefani, where we returned more than once, Mavro for its setting, and Metaxi Mas. We had passed the latter several times, always full, before finally managing to have dinner there.

Meteora: two nights beneath the monasteries

On 31 October we took a very early flight to Athens, collected our hire car and drove towards Meteora.

The arrival is memorable: rock formations gradually appear, then you begin to pick out monasteries perched on top.

We planned two nights, enough for monasteries, viewpoints and a walk without reducing Meteora to a quick stop.

Varlaam and Holy Trinity

We visited two monasteries: Varlaam and Holy Trinity, also known as Agia Triada.

The stairs, buildings balanced on rock and panoramic views are all part of the visit. This is more than seeing a church: the setting gives each monastery its full impact.

The other monasteries we hoped to see, including the Great Meteoron, were closed when we passed.

Our main planning tip: check each monastery’s opening days and times before arranging your visits. On a short stay, closures shape the itinerary.

Viewpoints and a walk through the woods

We drove the roads around Meteora, stopping at different viewpoints.

One morning we left early for the views, then returned to the hotel for breakfast. The light and scenery easily justified the early start.

Late one afternoon, we followed the trail from Kalambaka towards Agia Triada, through woods and rocks as far as a small chapel.

We did not complete the ascent because darkness was approaching. Even this short walk offered another perspective: Meteora from beneath the cliffs.

Our hotel and favourite dinner spot

We stayed at Doupiani House Hotel in Kastraki, beneath Meteora’s rocks.

The view, setting and breakfast made this one of our favourite stays of the trip. We paid around US$93.5 a night with breakfast in low season.

In Kalambaka, we had dinner at Panellinion two nights running: we enjoyed the first meal so much that we went back.

We remember a generous, delicious aubergine dish at around US$11 and excellent meat. We paid about US$27.5 for two in 2023.

We would happily return to Meteora for both its scenery and atmosphere.

For the monasteries, viewpoints and our favourite places, see our article on two days in Meteora.

Delphi: the archaeological site, museum and Athena Pronaia

On 2 November we left Meteora for Delphi through beautiful mountain scenery. We made no sightseeing stops, as we wanted to arrive before it grew too late.

We stayed at Parnassos Delphi Hotel in the village centre for around US$77. We liked both its location and breakfast.

We started sightseeing fairly early the following morning.

The Sanctuary of Apollo and the climb to the stadium

Delphi was one of ancient Greece’s great sanctuaries, associated with Apollo and his oracle.

The route climbs through the ruins to the theatre and then the stadium. We explored the whole main site at our own pace and enjoyed the walk.

Practical point: expect sloping ground. The surroundings are a major part of the experience, with mountains and valley behind the ruins.

Visitor numbers were reasonable during our stay, although some photographs still required patience.

The museum and the Sphinx of the Naxians

Next came the archaeological museum.

The Sphinx of the Naxians stopped us in our tracks. This marble sculpture, offered to the sanctuary by the people of Naxos, has a woman’s head, a lion’s body and wings. We had not known it before, and it became a museum highlight.

The museum complements the site: its works help you imagine the sanctuary’s wealth beyond the ruins outside.

The Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia

We also visited the lower sanctuary, with the Tholos and its circular arrangement of columns.

It would be a shame to mistake this for the main site or leave without seeing it. We fitted it into our stop before continuing towards Athens.

Arachova and Hosios Loukas on the road to Athens

After Delphi, we stopped in Arachova, a mountain village of stone houses and tiled roofs, marked by its clock tower on a rock. We then visited the Byzantine monastery of Hosios Loukas, including the interiors, before reaching Athens.

The monastery adds mosaics, marble decoration and frescoes to the ancient sites. Honey and products made by the monks were also available there. Our article covers access, history and the summer 2023 fire, which happened before our visit.

To plan Delphi, Arachova and the monastery, read our article on Delphi, Arachova and Hosios Loukas.

Athens: ancient monuments, neighbourhoods and sunset on Lycabettus

We finished with three nights in Athens.

The atmosphere changes completely. After Santorini’s villages and Meteora’s landscapes, Athens brings a lively big city with very different neighbourhoods.

We left the car in our accommodation’s private parking area and explored on foot and by metro.

The Acropolis early in the morning

We chose an early Acropolis visit to avoid the worst crowds. Even at this time of year, plenty of visitors were already there.

The Parthenon naturally dominates, but make time for the Erechtheion, its Caryatids and the other monuments on the rock.

The hilltop setting matters as much as the buildings. You start to locate neighbourhoods and landmarks that you will later reach on foot.

The agoras and monuments in the centre

We continued with the Ancient Agora, its open spaces and the Temple of Hephaestus.

Then came the Roman Agora and Tower of the Winds, Hadrian’s Library and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The latter was under restoration during our visit, with some columns obscured.

Between sites, we wandered through Plaka, Monastiraki and Syntagma Square. Those walks are part of the pleasure: ruins give way to shopping streets, small squares and restaurants.

Some landmarks we only saw from outside or from viewpoints. We did not enter the Panathenaic Stadium or visit the Acropolis Museum, which you could add for more context on the ancient site.

Lycabettus at sunset

We went up Lycabettus to end a day overlooking Athens.

The effort depends on how you go up, but the walk is steep. At the top, you appreciate the city’s scale, with the Acropolis standing out among the buildings.

We watched the sun go down and the colours change over the capital.

Our accommodation and restaurants in Athens

We booked LUX&EASY Athens Downtown Residences, with a terrace and private hot tub, for around US$132 a night.

The working-class neighbourhood surprised us on arrival, but the apartment and private parking met our needs. We used the metro to reach the centre.

Our restaurant choices included Ama Lachei and Seychelles in Metaxourgeio. We wanted to discover Athens through its food as well as its monuments.

For the monuments, neighbourhoods and our visiting tips, read our article on Athens, from the Acropolis to Lycabettus.

Cape Sounion at sunset

During our Athens stay, we drove to Cape Sounion to see the Temple of Poseidon.

The temple overlooks the sea, with the light changing around its columns towards evening.

We stayed for sunset, with closing time just afterwards. The guard gave us a few moments to finish our photographs as the last visitors left, allowing clearer views.

That is a memory of our visit, not something to rely on. Arrive early enough to enjoy the site before closing.

To plan the excursion from Athens and sunset visit, read our article on Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon.

What did this trip to Greece cost?

Reconstructed budget: around US$3,960 for two, or US$1,980 per person. This combines known 2023 expenses with allowances for forgotten costs. It is neither an exact 2023 expense statement nor a quote at current prices. Travel to the departure airport in France and personal purchases are excluded.

Our tips after the trip

Travel in autumn, but plan for closures. We had very pleasant weather: just over 20°C during the day in Santorini and good sightseeing conditions. That reflects our dates, not a guarantee for every autumn. We loved the quieter island, but some businesses were preparing to close for the season. Meteora’s monastery opening days also need careful checking.

Choose a small car in Santorini. Our estate car was too large for some access roads and parking areas, especially near Nano Suites. Next time, we would choose a compact and check how to reach the accommodation with luggage.

Photograph the hire car at collection. On the mainland, the rental company used an airport shuttle. The car had plenty of miles on it but served us throughout the loop. At drop-off, scratches were mentioned; we asked to compare them with the initial condition report. The discussion ended without any extra charge. Take photographs and a video at collection, and keep the rental documents until the end.

Walk at your own pace. Skaros, Thirassia’s steps, monastery access routes and the climb at Delphi all involve walking. We enjoyed them at our own pace. Identify which stops are easy from a car park and which involve stairs or steep ground, then plan around your abilities.

Our thoughts on this itinerary

Combining Santorini and mainland Greece gave us remarkably varied scenery and atmospheres in eleven days.

The caldera views, our first night in Oia, walks in Imerovigli, Meteora’s rocks and discovering Delphi stand out most.

Athens and Cape Sounion added a final chapter of city life and ancient history that fitted naturally into the journey.

We would change little about the pace: perhaps another night at Ambition Suites or more time in Meteora to enjoy the setting and visit other monasteries.

Above all, this journey made us want to return to Greece.

Map: Santorini

Find our sightseeing stops, accommodation and restaurants. Suggested places we did not visit are marked separately on the map.

Map: mainland Greece

Find our sightseeing stops, accommodation and restaurants. Suggested places we did not visit are marked separately on the map.

Episodes from our trip to Greece

• Full itinerary — Greece in 11 days: Santorini, Meteora, Delphi and Athens
• 🇬🇷 Episode 1 — Oia and Ammoudi: our first steps in Santorini
• 🇬🇷 Episode 2 — Imerovigli and Skaros: our favourite views in Santorini
• 🇬🇷 Episode 3 — Pyrgos, Emporio and Megalochori: Santorini’s villages
• 🇬🇷 Episode 4 — Southern Santorini: Zoodochos Pigi, Perissa and Red Beach
• 🇬🇷 Episode 5 — Santorini boat trip: volcano, hot springs and Thirassia
• 🇬🇷 Episode 6 — Santorini sunsets: our viewpoints and favourite restaurants
• 🇬🇷 Episode 7 — Meteora in two days: monasteries, viewpoints and a walk
• 🇬🇷 Episode 8 — Visiting Delphi: Apollo’s sanctuary, museum and Athena Pronaia
• 🇬🇷 Episode 9 — Athens: our visits from the Acropolis to Lycabettus
• 🇬🇷 Episode 10 — Cape Sounion at sunset: the Temple of Poseidon

Planning your visit

Greek National Tourism Organisation.

Known prices date from our 2023 trip. Missing costs have been covered by allowances: this is a reconstructed budget, not a current quote or a precise record of every expense.

Currency note: prices were paid in euros. US dollar amounts use an illustrative conversion of €1 = US$1.10 for readability; this is neither a live rate nor the rate applied to our 2023 payments.