Gjirokastër in Albania: visiting the Stone City

Leaving the grey French weather almost on impulse, we chose Albania for a five-day road trip in search of sun, contrast and a destination that still feels raw. The plan was simple: land in Tirana, pick up a rental car and head south. Our local rental agency turned out to be a very good surprise, with OK Mobility for €166 for the whole trip, including full insurance and unlimited mileage and enough freedom to cover a lot of ground in just a few days.

🚗 Driving in Albania: a very particular experience

Before talking about landscapes, it is worth mentioning the roads. On our route, the main roads were manageable with a normal car, although local traffic can be unpredictable and some secondary roads require more attention. We simply drove defensively and allowed extra time.

🏰 Gjirokastër: the Stone City under cloudy skies

That said, it is not a reason to avoid renting a car. Quite the opposite: with a bit of patience, a slower pace and good awareness, the road becomes part of the adventure and gives access to places that would be much harder to reach otherwise.

🗺️ What to see and explore in Gjirokastër

Our first real stop took us to Gjirokastër, a fascinating UNESCO-listed city and one of the most atmospheric places in southern Albania. The weather was not ideal that day, with heavy clouds hanging above the valley, but that almost suited the city. Its Ottoman houses, steep paved lanes and grey stone roofs create a setting that feels ancient, austere and deeply characterful.

• Old Bazaar (Qafa e Pazarit): the heart of the historic centre, with cobbled streets, restored façades and small local shops.
• Gjirokastër Castle: the fortress dominates the town and offers one of the best panoramas over the stone roofs and valley.
• If you have more time: the Cold War Tunnel and the Skenduli or Zekate houses are among the main additional visits to consider. We did not have enough time to include them during our short stop.

Walking through the old centre, you immediately feel that Gjirokastër is not just a pretty stop. It carries layers of history, from Ottoman architecture to Cold War memory, and offers a first immersion into a more authentic side of Albania before reaching the coast.

The 8 stages of our Albania road trip